Tenganan the Ancient Village

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The morning we left Candi Dasa, Tracy, Wendy and Kutam (I am sure I am spelling his name completely wrong..please forgive me) our guide headed to Tenganan as its renowned for retaining its ancient ways and its crafts. Its actually in many ways affluent because it has distinguished itself as ‘the’ place to go for original Bali crafts.  We even had to pay $20,000 rupiah ($2) for 4 of us to enter the village plus parking.

We came in behind the village at 6:30 am which seems crazy early but we had to get back by 10am. Our goal was to climb the mountain behind the village and see the view and walk the rice terraces. We ended up taking the wrong path which was treacherous because we weren’t prepared for rocky, straight up the mountain climbing. After a sweaty and gruelling 45 minute climb we were at the top. No view but we got to watch 5 guys make palm wine. And at the top was the paved road we should have taken but didn’t!

On the way into the village we came across a basket weaver and his family. He learned the trade from his grandfather, and he and his mom (see photo) now do the weaving. They served us tea and a taste of the honey from their bees. They had traditional honey but also black honey..made twice a year by bees who only sip nectar from the palm tree. The honey is tangy not sweet and so very, very good.

Tenganan is ancient in many ways. Most notably they still believe in cock fighting and every household had 3 or 4 or 5 roosters in basket cages all loudly protesting their captivity. The raised, wooden platforms used for the fights were evident everywhere. Kutam said they sacrifice 3 or 4 cocks for the temple and the rest are for fighting. Strange how some of the cocks were dyed bright colours. Does this intimidate their opponent? The whole thing is rather sad.

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